Standing in puddles in a dark concrete alleyway by the malfunctioning turnstiles of Galatasaray's RAMS Park Stadium, the Manchester United supporters were relieved when a decision was taken to open a small door to the side. It didn't feel particularly safe to funnel 500 people through such a tight space but at least it meant they may finally get in to see the game. Inside the stadium last Wednesday, their team were already two goals up.
At full-time, meanwhile, a decision was taken to hold those same United supporters inside for 80 minutes. By the time they left on a wet night, it was late and the handful of shuttle buses provided for the 10 mile journey to central Istanbul were filling up fast. Some tried hitching lifts by the motorway. Others found taxis asking for $US100.
And this is often what it's like when you travel in the Champions League. Europe's flagship tournament treats its corporate guests and sponsors well. No shortage of transport, signage and canapes for those in the padded seats. The regular supporters? Not so much. Increasingly, UEFA and their pals don't much seem to care about how the paying public get there and even less about how they get home.
So on the top of much-publicised incidents at Paris for the 2022 final and yet again, on a lesser but still disturbing scale, at a different Istanbul stadium for the following year's showpiece, come stories like this, stories of fans left at the mercy of inadequate stadiums, pitiful organisation and rank bad stewarding and policing just to try and watch a football match. It's shameful and as football continues to put money first and supporters nowhere the worse it is allowed to get.
United fan Matt Ford was in Istanbul and told me: 'We got to the ground in decent time but it was obvious we weren't getting in.
Manchester United supporters were greeted with a banner welcoming them to 'Hell' in Turkey
Upon reaching the turnstiles, the reasons for the delay become clear: printed tickets are sodden, nobody’s QR codes are working and many phones don't even physically fit in the scanners. Gridlock. Crush. Frustration. Already missed kick-off. pic.twitter.com/fVNxBHXWHe
— Matt Ford (@matt_4d) December 1, 2023UEFA were widely derided for their chaotic mismanagement of fans at the 2022 Champions League final in Paris
Scores of fans with tickets were kept out at Stade de France in shameful scenes in the capital
'There were lots of signs for media and sponsors but nothing for away fans.
'We found it. Down some steps into a dark tunnel. Water everywhere. Stumbling over wooden pallets on the floor. People falling over. And then to turnstiles and scanners that weren't working properly.
'The stewards and police were shouting. I wasn't scared because I have been here before. But was it dangerous? Yes.
'We were all crammed in with nowhere to go. So what happened to Liverpool fans in Paris crosses your mind. Of course it does.
'Eventually they gave up and took us round the side through a fire exit. One copper and he is shouting. Eventually you get in and its £2 for a carton of water and the card machines aren't working.
'Then after the game, when you eventually get to town, you are just relieved and the shocking thing is that it's so often like this.
'The Champions League makes millions but at an away game it's like the 1980s. They just don't care about you.'
Ford is a journalist who contributes to the United We Stand fanzine. But his experiences are entirely normal and will be familiar to travelling fans associated with all English clubs.
I was in Milan in September for Newcastle's game. Afterwards away fans found the two local metro stations shut at 9pm and in the absence of taxis were forced to walk an hour back in to the city. Once they had dispersed the Metro stations were opened again.
Manchester City fans returning home from their team's Champions League final in Turkey last June told horrendous stories of being corralled like cattle before the game and then abandoned miles from the city once it was over. Many were scared.
Ford and his travel companions attach no blame for last week to United and nor should they. As usual the club had done extensive reconnaissance, had its own stewards present, had provided the shuttle buses themselves. They then leant on UEFA and Galatasaray to act once they became aware of the dangers outside.
UEFA don't seem to care about how the paying public watch matches, and care less about how they get home safely (pictured UEFA president Aleksander Ceferin)
They flagged the issues regarding the debris and poor lighting in the access tunnel to UEFA on the morning of the game but nothing was done. United have now subsequently registered their dissatisfaction and are circulating a feedback survey put together by the Manchester United Supporters Trust that will then be passed to the authorities.
It's admirable work but will anything change? It's doubtful.
It's more than 16 years since I witnessed Liverpool fans sheltering under cardboard in a car park with no toilets or water in the middle of the night after the 2007 final in Athens. Nothing has changed since then so why would it now?
There are several ways through which clubs qualify for the Champions League. If they cannot guarantee comfort and safety for visiting fans then frankly they should not be allowed anywhere near it.
RASHFORD CHOPS AND CHANGES
Marcus Rashford has changed his PR team again. That's three different companies in a couple of years. Goals remain a forward's best publicity, though, and Rashford has one in the Premier League from open play.
That's your problem Marcus. Despite what anyone whispers in your ear, the rest is just bulls**t.
NOTHING OFF THE TABLE FOR TOON
Newcastle's kit used to be red and white. It was not until 1894 that they adopted the black and white stripes previously favoured by the county of Northumberland.
So not everything is sacred. Not Newcastle's playing colours, not their badge – which has changed four times down the years – and not their St James' Park Stadium.
I desperately hope Newcastle stay on their current site. There are few stadiums quite like it and watching it come in to view high on the hill as I drive over the Redheugh Bridge is one of my very favourite sights in football.
St James' Park is a rare breed of stadium - but there is no predicting which direction the ownership will take as they expand
However, Newcastle are ready to progress and with that in mind their owners from Saudi Arabia are right to look at what needs to be done to accelerate things to the next level. After years in the doldrums, Newcastle need to start winning things again. With that in mind, nothing should be off the table in terms of what they do or where they actually play.
In terms of the home kit they wear, I think we are on safer ground.
WHY PALACE ARE STUCK IN THE MIDDLE
Strange as it may sound, one of the most consistent Premier League teams are Crystal Palace. In the last six seasons they have finished 11th, 12th, 14th, 14th, 12th and 11th. In that time they have always amassed between 43 and 49 points.
The problem for chairman Steve Parish and football director Dougie Freedman is how to take the next step. As they have stayed safe and secure but also rather inert, other clubs like Brighton and Brentford have eased past them.
The feeling now is that manager Roy Hodgson is on thin ice. If Steve Cooper is sacked by Nottingham Forest, Palace may well try and hire him.
But whatever they do, Parish and Freedman must show more conviction than the last time they decided to aim higher.
Two summers ago they replaced Hodgson with Patrick Vieira with the stated aim of changing the way Palace played. It was, we were told, a switch made for the long-term good. Yet as soon as Viera's reign ran in to problems they sacked him and ushered Hodgson back in.
Palace are currently 14th. Safe, secure but once again rather stuck. Why is anyone surprised?
The re-appointment of Roy Hodgson hasn't sparked a football revolution at Selhurst Park
Erling Haaland and Man City's treatment of Simon Hooper did not warrant an apology, says manager Pep Guardiola
FOOTBALL'S BLIND SPOT
Speaking after Erling Haaland and his team-mates harassed referee Simon Hooper for failing to play a late advantage against Tottenham, Pep Guardiola was forthright.
'The referee knows what he has done,' said the Manchester City manager.
'They didn't apologise. We can't apologise. I don't understand how it should be different.'
Goodness me, how entitled. There is a distinct difference between making a mistake and behaving like Haaland and his gang. The fact football fails to see this is central to the problem.
IT'S ALL KICKING OFF!
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