The flags are unmistakable in the grey Oban skies. They flutter extravagantly in the wind; a symbol of joy, endeavour and high-spirited adventure.
Attached to show-stopping yachts, they burst through the horizon, a smorgasbord of colour.
Locals are lining up to get sight of them as I arrive at the marina. Like me, they’re here to see the spectacular boats of the Clipper Round the World race, which have docked briefly in the Scottish town before heading off for their final race.
I’m being given an added bonus, however - a sail on one of these beautiful giants. It’s an opportunity of a lifetime, and one I’ve dreamed of for a very long time.
This, you see, really is a race like no other. Eleven teams, eight legs, circumnavigating five oceans, across 40,000 nautical miles. What makes it particularly special, however, are the crew. Amateurs, with no previous experience, all eager to be a part of this hugely challenging experience. The end result is more than 20 crew members per yacht, with a mix of talent and abilities. It is a multi-cultural melting pot. All nations, all ages, all with different reasons for wanting to be part of this incredible journey.
Boarding the boat, I’m hugely aware of the significance. After a safety demonstration and being kitted out in full-on sailing gear, we set off for a few hours on the water. Rain begins to fall as we hoist the main sail. Perseverance is aptly named. Currently leading the race standings, it is skippered by Dutch former businesswoman Ineke Van Der Weijden.
The fleet involved in the Clipper Round the World race arrives in Oban for the first time
Scottish circumnavigator Vicki Leslie, who is from Shetland, heads into Oban this week
Mail Sport's Heather Dewar was on board for what was a thrilling experience
‘I used to sail as a kid in dinghies, and kind of lost touch with it,’ she explains.
‘I had no experience of sailing like this. I signed up as crew member for the 2017-18 edition of the Clipper, and went around the world and when I came back, I realised how much I liked offshore sailing. I got all my qualifications and have been working professionally ever since. My total crew consists of around 60 people, but they’re not all on the boat at the same time. ‘Some people only sign up for one leg, some for multiple legs, or all of it. They range from 19 years old to 72 years old. Fifteen nationalities, from nurses, to dentists, to engineers, lawyers, pilots. What they have in common is not necessarily sailing, but a sense of adventure.
‘People can find themselves and grow a little and be proud of themselves and this race does that, in a very well thought out way.
‘Coming up to the end of this, it is bitter sweet. On the one hand, I can’t believe we’re already here and it’s almost over. On the other hand, I think everyone is tired and it’s time to come home as well. However, I’m sure that, when I walk away, it will be difficult. ‘
The wind picks up as we head out towards the island of Kerrera. I take the helm for a short period of time - as Van Der Weijden talks me through our route. It’s a strange experience, steering a boat of this size, but also incredibly powerful and rewarding.
As voices chat happily in the background, I’m aware of a fin in the water. I train my eyes on the dancing waves for a few moments, before a dolphin emerges and jumps happily into its expansive playground.
The route the race takes around the world, including all five oceans
It is a wonderful moment; the first time I’ve ever seen such a mammal in its most natural surroundings.
Cups of tea and coffee are handed out as the boat continues to heel. We’re at an incline, but never does it feel unsafe or unwieldy. Cake, made by chef Vicki, is given out at will, as she reminisces about her time on the boat.
You get the sense that for most on this journey, there’s a deeper meaning behind their sense of adventure.
Mum and daughter Amanda Shehab and Megan Allpress are a perfect example of this emotive dynamic. As part of the boat - Dare To Lead - they’re here for the memories that will, undoubtedly, last a lifetime.
‘It’s a sad, but happy story,’ Shehab told me, as we sit in the confines of their cabin.
‘My husband, Ali, was into sailing and we went to Liverpool to see the clipper boats in the 1718 race. I looked at it and thought it just looked amazing. My husband said he would never do it and I would never have left him to do it. He then got ill in 2020 and in September 2021, died of a brain tumour. He was only 51. It was a devastating time. He was my best friend as well as my husband, and I wondered how I was going to get through it. I decided then to sign up to Clipper, and sail around the world.
‘It has been an incredible experience.’
For daughter Megan, 27, the opportunity to sail around the world with her mother, was overwhelming. It took less than an hour for her to sign up and follow suit.
‘I was sitting in the kitchen working from home at the time and started Googling and watching the videos. I decided I was going to do it as well - with my mum. I knew that if I was going to do it, I had to do it with her.
‘On the boat, we are mother and daughter and have special moments along the way, but we’re just part of the crew. We muck in and everyone has to get involved - there’s no special treatment.’
It’s easy to understand how memories such as these are created. It’s not just about the sailing. It’s about learning to live with others, and being part of a team that is en route to something remarkable. The cabins - made up of tiny bunks and a kitchen area which is filled with treats and freshly baked bread - is compact. Crew members are literally on top of each other 24 hours a day, with little to no privacy, no morning shower routine, and work shifts which are carried out with military precision. There are hard times, sure, but there are also moments along the route that are other-worldly and which may never be experienced again; working under the stars, spotting whales, making friendships that will last a lifetime.
Heather bravely takes the wheel, watched closely by Ineke Van Der Weijden
‘It’s hard to put into words,’ admitted Allpress
‘I always come back to Christmas Eve. Christmas was amazing on the boat, being able to share it with mum and the crew. It was a beautiful day and the spinnaker was flying. However, the night before was like Armageddon. We had three spinakkers on the floor at once. At the time when you’re doing it, you just think: “I can’t do this anymore, it’s one sail evolution after another”. You’re tired and everything seems to be going wrong. But looking back on that night, it was actually incredible. In some ways, the bad bits are the bits we look back on and think: “We did it”!
‘It’s really difficult to explain to someone what this is like. You try and do so when you meet friends and family, but it’s not easy to express the amazing things we have done and seen together. I now get to go home with someone who understands that fully.’
As we spin around to head back to Oban, we are battered by torrential rain. Clothes sodden and hair dripping, I’m afforded a tiny glimpse into what life must be like on Perseverance when the going gets tough. You can’t help but feel a sense of awe for those taking part. On Sunday, they’ll set off to Portsmouth, with victory in their sights. What a privilege to be a tiny part of this life-changing journey.